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Lavandula angustifolia (English lavender): hardiest in Michigan's climate.
- Blue Rider: resembles Hidcote; hardy.
- Elegance Ice: planted 2010, white flower heads; hardiness not tested.
- Hidcote: deepest purple flower heads, medium stem, blooms first year; hardy.
- Hidcote Superior: planted 2010, dark, short flower heads; hardiness not tested.
-
Jean Davis:
short stem, pale pink flowers, large shrub; doesn’t bloom first
year; early June/July bloomer; very hardy
- Lady: light lavender color, bushy habit; small flower heads; very hardy.
- Miss Catherine: long, darker pink flower heads on long stems; very hardy.
- Munstead: deep purple intermittent flower head, blooms first year; very hardy.
- Mystery Blue: narrow, wispy medium length stems; periwinkle intermittent flower head; late June/July: very hardy.
- Rosea: much like Jean Davis; very hardy.
- Royal Velvet: longest stems in species; long, dark purple intermittent flower heads; very hardy.
-
Twickle
Purple: shorter stems and flower heads; very hardy
Lavandula x intermedia
(Lavandin: hybrid of French and
English lavenders: not as winter hardy as English lavenders)
1. Edelweiss: white
blooms; hardy.
2. Grosso: large plant;
extremely fragrant deep violet
flowers; butterfly magnet; blooms
July: hardy.
3.
Provence: large
plant; subtle lavender-blue flowers;
blooms July: hardy.
Lavender trivia:
Ancient Egyptians
used lavender for their mummification processes. The Phoenicians and
early Arabians perfumed themselves with the plant’s distinctive scent.
The Romans used lavender in perfumed oils, for bathing, cooking and for
an air freshener. Modern herbalists and gardeners are rediscovering the many benefits of
lavender’s essential oil: scent (sachets and air freshener),
culinary delicacy, medicinal and mental treatments. Many doctors
of the “old country” still prescribe treatments with lavender oil for
their patients with hyperactivity, insomnia, flatulence, depression,
skin irritations, joint pain and headaches.
Lavender care: Find a sunny (at
least six hours), well-drained exposure for your lavender plant.
Lavender needs breathing room, so find a space where the
sub-shrub has room to stretch and grow (especially Grosso and Provence varieties, which grow to 3– 4 feet
wide). Lavender does NOT need rich soil or fertilizer.
Dig a hole deeper than the depth of the plant’s roots (or pot you
bought it in), and wider than the roots’ width (or pot).
Remove the plant from the pot, rub the roots loose from the soil, fan
the roots and place in the hole. Water the roots
thoroughly and let drain before covering with soil (do not cover the
crown of the plant with soil). Tamp soil gently. Water again. Water
until roots are established. Once lavender is established, it is
drought-tolerant. To root well, snip budding stems the first year
before blooming. Harvest stems below first leaf node when bud
head flowers about 30%. Prune dead wood in the spring and shape
plant until maturity at three years. Fall pruning may be safe depending
on micro-climate.
